Qena lies on the Nile north of Luxor. Its Temple of Hathor at Dendera still has colour on its ceilings, and the Temple of Seti I at Abydos holds some of the finest reliefs of the New Kingdom. Both are easy day trips from Luxor.
Best time for Dendera and Abydos tours
October to April brings the most comfortable weather for Dendera and Abydos tours. Both temples lie north of Luxor, so an early start helps you arrive before the heat and enjoy the halls in the quiet morning light. In summer, an early start matters even more.
One full day from Luxor is enough to see both temples. Abydos is the farther of the two, so many travelers visit it first and stop at Dendera on the way back. If you have less time, Dendera alone makes an easy half-day trip from Luxor and still shows you one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt.
Do not miss the coloured ceilings and the roof chapels of the Temple of Hathor at Dendera, and the fine New Kingdom reliefs of the Temple of Seti I at Abydos, including the long list of earlier kings carved in one of its corridors. You can read more about both temples on the official Egyptian monuments site. Bring a light scarf or hat, water and a camera that works well in low light, because the inner halls are dim. These two temples are quieter than the sites of Luxor, which makes them a calm day for travelers who have already seen the famous names.
Getting around on Dendera and Abydos tours
Dendera lies on the west bank of the Nile, across the river from the city of Qena, while Abydos sits farther north, near the town of el-Balyana. Both are reached by road from Luxor, through the farmland of the Nile Valley with its sugar cane, palm groves and villages, so a private car with a driver is the simplest way to combine them.
A sample plan for a first visit: drive to Abydos first. In the Temple of Seti I, take time for the seven chapels dedicated to the gods and to the king. Behind the temple lies the Osireion, a mysterious structure of massive stone pillars that is often partly under water. On the way back, stop at Dendera, where you can walk down into the narrow crypts and see a copy of the famous zodiac ceiling, whose original is now in the Louvre in Paris.
Facilities near the temples are simple, so bring snacks and enough water for the day. Back in Luxor, try a plate of koshari or a fresh glass of karkadeh, the cool hibiscus drink of the south.
For clothing, wear light clothes that cover shoulders and knees, which is comfortable in the sun and respectful in the villages you pass. Comfortable shoes help on the uneven stone floors and on the stairs that lead to the roof at Dendera.
In the villages along the way, children often wave from the roadside, and a friendly wave back is always welcome. Ask before you photograph people. Some small change in Egyptian pounds is useful for toilets and small tips at the temples.
